We always see a strong trend towards smoked fish, particularly salmon, at Christmas of course, but are expecting a peak this Easter too, as shoppers look to buy more fish than perhaps they would on a normal weekend."ĭavid Parker, fisheries officer of the Marine Conservation Society, said consumers could enjoy the health benefits and taste of kippers without feeling guilty: "Herring are a very resilient fish which swim in large shoals with no bycatch, and come mainly from the North Sea and the Norwegian seas. She attributed the near doubling of smoked haddock sales to the renewed popularity of a classic kedgeree.Īt Marks & Spencer, kipper sales have levelled off after a surge in 2010, but fish buyer Chloe Gray said: "Sales of smoked fish are on the rise at the moment as shoppers are really enjoying the complex flavours that the smoking process creates.
Melissa Spiro, the chain's fish buyer, said: "We're seeing strong demand for traditional feel-good food this Easter weekend." Waitrose said sales of kippers were 12% up on last year but the big seller this week had been smoked haddock fillets, with a 92% increase. The price is also attractive – kippers cost only £5 a kilo, compared with £12 for smoked haddock and £16 for salmon side. He said they have been endorsed by chefs and food writers including Nigella Lawson, Jamie Oliver, Gordon Ramsey, Marco Pierre White and Delia Smith. "Demand dwindled for nearly four decades but a combination of factors such as their competitive price, a move towards healthier eating and also a foodie revival for old heritage favourites has put them firmly back on dinner plates."
Gary Hooper, Tesco fish specialist and president of the National Federation of Fishmongers, said: "Kippers, along with other traditionally popular oily fish such as mackerel and sardines suffered from a culinary prejudice by younger people who considered them old-fashioned and the kind of food eaten by their grandparents. They sold well until the 1970s when they fell out of favour with the advent of fast food which had greater appeal for younger diners. Kippers were the quintessential British breakfast food - also enjoyed for high tea and supper - of the Victorian and Edwardian eras. As a sustainable fish they are on the Marine Conservation Society's list of fish to eat. Rival Tesco says sales of fresh kippers are up 28% year-on-year – the equivalent of 150,000 extra kippers a year.Īn oily fish high in Omega 3, kippers are quick and easy to cook, whether frozen, "in the bag" or chilled. While smoked fish enjoys a traditional surge in popularity over Easter, Sainsbury's - which offers fresh kippers nearly all year round - said sales of kippers from its fresh fish counter were up 79% over the past year, with its Taste the Difference pre-packaged kippers up by 20%.
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